Photo by Cydney Scott

In the City

Getting to Know Your Neighborhood: Jamaica Plain

A guide to eating, shopping, and hanging out in a hidden corner

Located just 3.5 miles from Boston University by bike, bus, or T, Jamaica Plain (JP to locals) is one of Boston’s most diverse neighborhoods.

You won’t find many chain stores here. What you will find is a community committed to the environment, fair-trade commerce, and sustainable agriculture—and a place that’s hip and way left-of-center when it comes to politics.

Once described as the “Eden of America” by a 19th-century traveler, JP evolved after the Civil War from a series of large farms to one of the country’s first streetcar suburbs, according to local lore. The neighborhood includes a key part of the city’s famed Emerald Necklace Conservancy, a seven-mile series of contiguous parks designed by renowned landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted in the late 19th century.

The Great Outdoors

Jamaica Pond
Jamaicaway and Pond Street

To get to Jamaica Pond, follow the bike path that runs along the Emerald Necklace from the Landmark Center on Boston’s Park Drive to JP. Covering 68 acres, Jamaica Pond is a great place for a stroll (dogs must be leashed). This kettle pond formed by glaciers was once a reservoir for the city of Boston. Today, holders of a Massachusetts fishing license can fish the pond. Sailboats and rowboats are available for rent by the hour during the summer.

Arnold Arboretum
125 Arborway

The crown jewel of JP’s open spaces, the Arnold Arboretum offers a stunning landscape that changes with the seasons. Like Jamaica Pond, the Arboretum is a link in the city’s Emerald Necklace. Originally owned by Harvard University, the Arboretum was established in 1872, making it the oldest public arboretum in North America. It was deeded to the city of Boston in 1882; Harvard was given a 1,000-year lease and currently operates the property. Today, it is one of the world’s preeminent educational and research institutions and a National Historic Landmark, with more than 16,000 plants in its living collection, spread across 281 acres. The arboretum is famous for its annual Lilac Sunday, held each May to celebrate and showcase its world-class collection of more than 400 lilac trees.

Forest Hills Cemetery
95 Forest Hills Ave.

One of the country’s premier examples of the garden cemetery style, Forest Hills was created in 1848 to replace old colonial graveyards in what was then the city of Roxbury. The cemetery, set on more than 275 acres, was designed as a place to mourn the dead and to contemplate nature. Many famous Americans are buried here, among them the abolitionist William Lloyd Garrison, Nobel Prize–winning playwright Eugene O’Neill, and poets Anne Sexton and e. e. cummings. The cemetery also includes wonderful examples of Victorian architecture and spectacular sculptures, including a towering bronze angel created by sculptor Daniel Chester French, famous for the Lincoln Memorial’s Abraham Lincoln sculpture in Washington, D.C.

The parklike setting is ideal for strolling and contemplation, with its woodlands, grassy slopes, waterfall, fountain, and the man-made Lake Hibiscus. The Forest Hills Crematory was the first built in New England. The cemetery was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2004. Guided tours are available from April through October.

Franklin Park Zoo
One Franklin Park Rd., Dorchester

Although the 72-acre Franklin Park Zoo, nestled in Franklin Park, is officially in Dorchester, we include it because Boston’s largest park is spread throughout parts of Jamaica Plain and Roxbury, as well. The zoo is home to more than 100 species of animals in a variety of habitats, including the Outback Trail, which features kangaroos, kookaburras, and emus; Giraffe Savannah, home to Masai giraffes; and Serengeti Crossing, four acres of grassland and wooded hills where Hartmann’s mountain zebras, ostriches, and wildebeests roam. It boasts an outstanding indoor gorilla exhibition and a tropical rainforest. Opened in 1912, the zoo is operated by Zoo New England, a private nonprofit committed to conservation. This popular family destination is open year-round and attracts more than 600,000 visitors a year.

Hyde Square

Brendan Behan Pub
378 Centre St.

Popular with locals, the Behan, as it’s called, is a classic Irish bar famous for its large selection of draft and bottled beers, including dark ales, stouts, and lagers. And as the pub’s devoted clientele will tell you, the Behan is also famous for conversation and live Irish music each Saturday starting at 5:30 pm. The pub also allows dogs on its back patio year-round.

Top Mix Bar & Kitchen
365 Centre St.

This American-Caribbean restaurant serves traditional bar food with a twist. The lunch and dinner menu includes mofongo (hand-mashed fried plantains with garlic butter and fried pork shoulder), street corn, and fried cheese. The restaurant prides itself on uniquely mixed spirits, beer, and wine, along with a Caribbean-inspired cocktail menu. Guests love the ambient lights and invigorating Latin music. This fusion bar has Tijuana Tuesdays, when margaritas, tequila shots, and tacos are lower priced.

A Taste of History

Loring-Greenough House
12 South St.

A superb example of Georgian Colonial architecture, the Loring-Greenough House is one of the oldest structures in JP. Built in 1760 by Joshua Loring, a colonial American commodore in the English navy, the house saw a number of uses after Loring returned to England at the start of the American Revolution. It was used as a military hospital during the Battle of Bunker Hill. In 1784, it was bought by the Greenough family, who occupied it until 1924, when a group of civic-minded women saved it from demolition. The house, which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, allows visitors to relax on the lawn during daylight hours. Private tours of the house can be arranged via email. The house showcases American furniture and decorative arts from the 18th through early 20th centuries, as well as archival material chronicling the history of Jamaica Plain. Special exhibits and concerts are also held at the house.

The Footlight Club
7A Eliot St.

Founded in 1877 with the mission of providing “pleasant and useful entertainment by the aid of drama,” this is the oldest community theater in the country. And, yes, it still produces dramas, musicals, and comedies, all performed by local actors.

The Eliot School of Fine & Applied Arts
24 Eliot St.

In 1676, 38 residents of Jamaica Plain donated land to support a school funded by an endowment from local farmer John Eliot. The Eliot School of Fine & Applied Arts educated Africans, Native Americans, and colonial children before turning its focus to the arts in the late 19th century. Alarmed at how manual arts like woodworking, sewing, and bookbinding were disappearing in Boston, the Eliot School began offering courses in such crafts for schoolteachers and adults, and then for children in after-school programs.

Today, the School, which continues to operate out of its original 17th-century building, offers courses for children and adults in woodworking, sewing, fiber arts, drawing and painting, photography, printmaking, upholstery, and furniture restoration. Instructors offer a modern twist on many of these art forms: there are courses in drawing for comics and cartoons, digital photography, and seasonal Easter egg workshops.

Centre Street

The majority of Jamaica Plain’s shopping and dining venues can be found along and around Centre Street, the principal artery cutting through JP Center. (At one end it becomes South Street; at the other, South Huntington Avenue.) Below are highlights.

This popular eatery has legions of dedicated customers who stop by for ramen, pho, Thai noodles, and rice dishes. Be sure to try the tonkotsu ramen, featuring pork broth and chashu pork (marinated braised pork belly), sesame oil, menma (Japanese bamboo), nori, wood ear mushrooms, shredded red pepper, black garlic oil, and scallions. Vegans and vegetarians will enjoy the yasai ramen with steamed tofu and veggie broth, wood ear mushrooms, bok choy, wakame seaweed, sweet corn, menma, and bean sprouts. Not in the mood for soup or noodles? Try a rice bowl like the chicken katsu curry, spicy chashu, roasted duck, or fried tofu rice bowls. Soup Shack is open daily for lunch and dinner and has additional locations in Brookline and Cambridge. Outdoor sidewalk dining is available during warm-weather months.

Salmagundi
765 Centre St.

Salmagundi’s owners, husband and wife Jessen Fitzpatrick and Andria Rapagnola, believe that there’s a perfect hat for everyone—and their JP shop has more than 12,000 to choose from. In addition to chapeaus of every style, the boutique offers a wide selection of handbags, jewelry, ties, belts, gloves—and even flasks. The store also offers cleaning and blocking services. (Salmagundi has a second location on Salem Street in the North End that harbors an extensive collection of 4,000 hats.) Note: the store is open Wednesday through Saturday from 11 am to 5 pm, closed Sunday to Tuesday.

Vee Vee
763 Centre St. 

This cozy restaurant, owned and operated by long-time Jamaica Plain residents Dan and Kristen Valachovic, has become a neighborhood favorite since opening in 2008. The ever-changing seasonal menu currently features entrees like herb-marinated chicken breast with ricotta gnocchi, lemon, and farm veggies; fettuccine with mushroom duxelles, white wine, and parmesan; and vegan gorditas (pan-fried tortillas with masa and potato) topped with squash, refried lentils, cabbage, cashew-chili sauce, and pepitas. A chalkboard displays the daily specials. Vee Vee also has a small but impressive selection of beer and wine and offers takeout most evenings. While some tables are designated for walk-ins, diners should make reservations. Vee Vee also has a lovely outdoor patio that is open during warm-weather months. 

Boomerangs
716 Centre St.

Looking to stock a new apartment? You can’t do better than Boomerangs—and you’ll be supporting a good cause while you shop, as all sales benefit the AIDS Action Committee of Massachusetts. This secondhand shop carries a wide selection of men’s, women’s, and children’s used clothing, as well as used furniture, glassware and dishes, electronics, toys, art, books (which are 50 percent off on Thursdays!), and vinyl records and CDs. The store’s inventory changes often, so visit frequently. 

Casa Verde
711 Centre St.

This Mexican restaurant has been open since May 2016 and attracts diners from all over the area. It’s easy to see why. The restaurant offers a wide selection of snacks, including elote (grilled corn with a cilantro aioli, cotija cheese, squeeze of lime, and a pinch of chili), tacos, and tortas, with fillings like pork and adobo tofu served with guacamole, chipotle ketchup, and patatas bravas. Casa Verde also has an innovative cocktail menu and an extensive list of draft and bottled beers. The restaurant does not accept reservations, so come early to beat the rush. A back patio is open for al fresco dining during warm-weather months.

This Vietnamese-Thai restaurant serves classic noodle dishes like pad thai, pad see ew, and grapow lo mein with chicken and vegetables in a chili garlic sauce. Noodle Barn is also known for its fried rice, pho, banh mi sandwiches, soups, and curries. Try a Thai iced tea, Vietnamese coffee (available hot or cold), or a smoothie in flavors like green tea, mango, strawberry, and even avocado.

Sweet Rice Thai Kitchen + Sushi Bar
697 Centre St.

Sweet Rice bills itself as a Thai kitchen with a sushi bar, offering staples like pad thai, papaya salad, and five types of curry. They also offer sushi boats swimming with sashimi and assorted sushi rolls and an abundance of gluten-free and vegan options, including tofu avocado curry and sautéed eggplant. Sweet Rice is open for lunch and dinner.

Susanna
683 Centre St.

This women’s and children’s clothing boutique focuses on local and American brands with an emphasis on female designers. You’ll also find many sustainable and domestically produced accessories and jewelry. The shop’s friendly and knowledgeable staff will help you find the perfect gift for yourself or a loved one. Free shipping is available on orders over $150.

On Centre
676 Centre St.

This small, independently owned gem of a gift shop offers something for everyone. It features a small but curated choice of clothing, handbags, jewelry, paper supplies, and other housewares. It’s the perfect place to find a quirky birthday present, a housewarming gift, or a JP T-shirt. New merchandise arrives weekly. The store is open seven days a week.

The Purple Cactus
674 Centre St.

With an emphasis on fresh ingredients and vibrant flavors, Purple Cactus offers a light, healthy interpretation of classic Mexican cuisine. The restaurant’s mantra is “big on flavor, low on fat.” Black beans are simmered without lard or additives, and the kitchen uses low-fat sour cream and lean steak in its dishes, which include an array of fajita wraps, rice and bean or shrimp burritos, quesadillas, and a vegetable taco salad with a zingy cilantro-lime vinaigrette. The guacamole and salsa fresca are made daily. Purple Cactus is especially popular for takeout (the dining area is decidedly no-frills) and is open every day except Sundays, with a special Saturday brunch menu available from 10 am to 2 pm.

City Feed and Supply
672 Centre St.

This grocery-café-deli is reminiscent of an old-fashioned general store, but with a modern twist. City Feed’s motto—“buy fresh, buy local”—emphasizes its commitment to sustainability and locally grown or prepared foods. City Feed offers fair-trade coffee and a mouthwatering selection of sandwiches and baked goods for takeout. The shop also carries organic produce, and locally manufactured sodas, root beer, and sarsaparilla. You’ll find a wide selection of artisanal cheeses, as well as New England craft beers. A smaller City Feed is located at 66A Boylston St., a short walk from the MBTA Orange Line’s Stony Brook station.

Tonino
669A Centre St.

This intimate Italian restaurant, formerly the site of the popular eatery Little Dipper, draws inspiration from the cozy trattorias, enotecas, and aperitivo bars in the smaller neighborhoods surrounding Rome. The menu features pasta dishes like tonnarelli cacio e pepe and rigatoni arrabbiata; small plates like olives, fennel salad, roasted squid, countneck clams, and mortadella; and pizza slices and whole pies in a variety of flavors, such as margherita and pepperoni, as well as bianca pizzas in flavors like pepperoni and hot honey and eggplant with ricotta. The beverage menu includes a curated list of cocktails, wine, beer, sake, and nonalcoholic drinks. Reservations are strongly encouraged.

Nckls & Dimes
668 Centre St.

This high-end boutique sells and consigns luxury attire, and also carries its own line of branded clothing, including sweatshirts, sweatsuits, and dress shirts. The store promises customers will “flip the NCKLS but never drop a dime.”

J. P. Licks
659 Centre St.

Opened in 1981, this is the original J.P. Licks ice cream shop (there are now 17 in and around Boston). It may well be the most popular place in JP, especially during the summer. Referring to itself as “an ice cream maker, coffee roaster, destination, and good neighbor,” J.P. Licks has ice cream in dozens of flavors, as well as nonfat smoothies, frappes, floats, egg creams, sorbets, and hard and soft yogurt, and offers seasonal specials every month. The restaurant’s large fireplace is put to good use during winter months and its outdoor tables make it an inviting place in warm weather. Everything made here is Kosher-certified.

Chilacates
658 Centre St.

This intimate, unpretentious taqueria offers authentic Mexican street fare, from tostadas and enchiladas to quesadillas, tortas, and burritos. Of special note are the restaurant’s corn tortilla tacos. The restaurant has seating for 16, but is most popular for its takeout service. Check out the original Chilacates, at 224 Amory St., near the Stony Brook T stop.

The Joint Jamaica Plain
605 Centre St.

This small eatery offers a wide range of menu items, including omelettes, French toast, pancakes and waffles, and breakfast sandwiches, as well as dinner entrées like ribeye steak and eggplant parmesan. Joint is especially popular for their burgers and pizzas. Save room for the brownie sundae with ice cream, whipped cream, and chocolate syrup. The Joint has only a small number of tables so be prepared to wait—or order takeout or delivery.

Ten Tables
597 Centre St.

This welcoming restaurant emphasizes fresh ingredients from local purveyors served in an intimate, elegant setting. Candlelight casts a glow over the tiny restaurant and adjoining bar as you enjoy wines from vineyards that practice organic or biodynamic winemaking and an interesting array of cocktails. The menu changes with the season. Ten Tables also offers theme nights, including “beerger” Tuesdays (rotating burgers and a beer for $16) and pasta Thursdays. Check their website for more information.

Tres Gatos
470 Centre St.

No ordinary tapas bar, Tres Gatos, run by the same owners as Casa Verde, is the city’s “first full-service restaurant, book, and music store,” according to its website. Formerly the book and music store Rhythm & Muse, Tres Gatos still sells books and music in the back. The menu features classic tapas, charcuterie, and appetizers, with an emphasis on local produce, fish, and meats. It also has a wide selection of classic and contemporary Spanish wines and hard-to-find brews. Based on the belief that “sharing good food, music, and books is essential to a happy life,” Tres Gatos has become enormously popular with locals. You’ll have your choice of seating at the bar, small dining tables, or the seasonal outdoor area. Be sure to check out Tres Gatos’ weekend brunch service, too.

Core Social Justice Cannabis Museum
401A Centre St.

Focused on cannabis history and law, this museum—along with Core’s other location in Portland, Maine—may be the only ones of their kind in the country, devoted to exhibits that illustrate, in their own words, how “decades of unsupported policies and the enforcement of the laws born of those policies have and continue to facilitate government overreach as well as create undue hardship in low-income and minority communities.” Among the current exhibits is American Warden, which invites guests to sit inside an interactive jail and experience firsthand the visceral effects of incarceration. The museum, with free entry daily for adults 21-plus, shares space with Seed, a cannabis dispensary that offers a range of vapes, topicals, tinctures, accessories, edibles, and more.

Momo Masala
2 Perkins St.

Momo Masala, which opened in 2024 in the space previously occupied by The Haven, is a Nepali and Indian eatery. The restaurant features classic favorites, like lamb tikka masala, tofu tikka saag, and paneer korma. Be sure to try the Nepali momos, a snack of steamed or fried dumplings popular in Kathmandu, toasted with Nepalese spices and your choice of proteins. Momo Masala has an extensive menu, guaranteed to please even the fussiest eaters.

Mario’s Pizza
8 Perkins St.

The latest addition to Hyde Square’s bustling restaurant scene, Mario’s Pizza offers a variety of pizzas, from classics like Margherita to unique creations like the JP Veggie, topped with red sauce, mozzarella, goat cheese, eggplant, red onion, mushrooms, and cherry tomatoes. You can also create your own pizza. The menu also includes calzones, salads, and a fabulous dessert, pastel de nata, a Portuguese egg custard tart.

Monumental Market 
36 South St.

This lively community space describes itself as “JP’s only nut-free bakery, cafe, and record store.” Previously occupied by Monumental Cupcakes, the storefront now houses several local vendors, including: Lavender Bee Baking Company, a peanut and tree nut–free bakery that sells bars, brownies, scones, cakes, muffins, and pastries; Vinyl Index, a record store with a distinctive and diverse selection of vinyls; Greenhouse, which sells an array of funky houseplants; and other community partners. Monumental Market is a woman-owned enterprise that supports local artists and businesses. Visitors rave about the friendly atmosphere.

The BYTE Shop
48 South St.

The BYTE Shop does a little bit of everything with electronics: it’s a repair shop, resale shop, and recycling shop. Services include computer hardware and software repair, data recovery and transfer services, iPhone screen replacements, game console repair, digitization services, and more. The knowledgeable staff will answer any of your technology questions, and you can drop off old electronics for recycling, too. The quirky studio is decked out in vintage computers and multicolored bar stools. The shop is also a computer history museum that traces the evolution of the home computer from 1965 to 1995 through one of the largest collections of historic home computers in New England.

Papercuts J.P.
60 South St.

This woman-owned independent bookstore specializes in the offbeat. Yes, you’ll find the latest John Grisham bestseller here, along with a select choice of cookbooks, graphic novels, children’s books, poetry, fiction, and nonfiction. You’ll also find books by authors deemed overlooked by owner Kate Layte, a JP resident and former publishing executive who received a publishing certificate from BU. The shop also sells a selection of Papercuts J.P. cards. Layte has an eye for the unusual. Cutlass Press, an independent book publisher dedicated to publishing cutting-edge books, also operates out of the store.

Ferris Wheels Bike Shop
66 South St.

Ferris Wheels Bike Shop is a local do-it-all bike shop that has been selling and repairing new and refurbished bicycles since 1982. Services include ​​custom bike fittings, skate sharpening, and expert advice on road, mountain, and city riding. The store also sells clothing and parts and accessories. The shop proclaims that “no job is too small or too odd,” and they mean it. Ferris Wheels actively supports local biking safety advocacy groups and offers discounts for current members of groups, including Bikes Not Bombs and the Boston Cyclists Union, as well as complimentary air and lubricating oil for customers.

Off the Beaten Path

The Video Underground
3203 Washington St.

Video Underground (The VU) supplies Boston cinephiles with more than 17,500 independent films, including many you won’t find online, and the knowledgeable staff adds films to the store’s collection on a daily basis. The VU also offers local artists a chance to sell their work, such as buttons and tote bags. You can buy or rent DVD and Blu-ray films here, and the salesclerks will happily order, at no extra cost, any available title they don’t have in stock. Films are categorized by subject, such as Comics & Superheroes and Cops & Criminals. Films are searchable on the store’s website. But The VU is more than just a video store. They have a 24-seat microcinema where they host regular film screenings and a full-service coffee shop. The store is also a micro-batch coffee roaster and sells a wide range of coffee and non-coffee drinks, including monthly specials, like Night of the Peeps, a marshmallow and vanilla latte with whipped cream and yellow sanding sugar.

Brassica Kitchen + Café
3710 Washington St.

A café by day, serving coffee drinks, biscuits, pastries made from scratch, and sandwiches, Brassica Kitchen + Café transforms at night into a hip, sophisticated restaurant that prides itself on its “fermentation-forward” food and drink. The innovative menu includes chef tastings and à la carte plates and is constantly changing to reflect the seasons. You’ll find everything from koji risotto to duck and venison bolognese to fried sweet rice with vegetables. Located within walking distance of the Forest Hills T stop, Brassica is open for dinner Wednesday through Saturday, and also features a popular weekend brunch.

Evergreen Eatery and Café
154 Green St.

This laid-back café serves breakfast all day, including omelettes, avocado toast, pancakes, and French toast. Try the creative Wake Up Burger, which features a smashed burger topped with American cheese, bacon, and a sunny-side up egg. Their clam belly roll with fresh whole clams, French fries, coleslaw, and tartar sauce is also a good bet, as is the Forest Hills triple-decker sandwich with bacon, lettuce, tomato, and egg salad. The café also serves tea, hot and iced coffee, flavored espresso drinks, juice, smoothies, and hot chocolate. Evergreen Eatery and Café is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner from Tuesday to Saturday, and breakfast and lunch on Sunday (closed Monday).

Ula Café
The Brewery Complex, 284 Amory St.

This Black, woman, and veteran–owned bakery and coffee shop carries organic, fair-trade roasted coffee from New Harvest Coffee Roasters in New Haven, as well as espresso and a wide selection of loose-leaf teas and fresh sandwiches and pastries. The menu also features a selection of yummy vegan and gluten-free options. The free Wi-Fi attracts many young professionals hunched over their laptops.

Getting there: The easiest way to get to JP is to take the #39 bus from Copley Square to JP Center. The bus takes you down Huntington Avenue to South Huntington Avenue, which merges onto Centre Street. Or take the MBTA’s Orange Line to either the Jackson Square stop (for venues in Hyde Square) or the Green Street stop. The neighborhood is also within an easy bicycle ride; the Emerald Necklace bike path is one of Boston’s best.

Click on the points in the map above for more information on the places listed in our guide to the Jamaica Plain area.

This article was updated on April 10th, 2024.

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