Lunch, Anyone? Roxy’s Gourmet Grilled Cheese

The Mighty Rib Melt ($8) is an irresistible combination of gooey fontina cheese, tender braised beef, and caramelized onions. Add the hand-cut truffle fries for an extra $4. Photos by Esther Ro (COM’15)

There may be no sandwich more beloved than classic grilled cheese. What says comfort food more than gooey cheese melted between two slices of toasted, buttered bread? Unfortunately, too often what you get when you order one is burnt white bread, yellow cheese the consistency of plastic, and too much grease. Not at Roxy’s Gourmet Grilled Cheese. This Allston eatery serves up wonderfully eclectic versions of the lunch staple, made with fresh ingredients and irresistible flair.

Roxy’s began as a successful food truck operation—its yellow truck can be seen all over the city and was even featured on the Food Network’s reality competition The Great Food Truck Race in 2011. Last May, the owners decided to open a brick-and-mortar store that offers the same grilled cheese sandwiches the food truck was famous for, but in a setting with an open kitchen, whimsical décor, and a vintage Ms. Pac-Man machine.

Roxy’s offers a small but imaginative menu and reasonable prices, considering the generous portion sizes. Each sandwich is cooked to order and served on thick-cut organic pain de mie from Iggy’s Bread in Cambridge. Go traditional with the Rookie Melt ($5), Vermont cheddar cheese and fresh tomato, or the Three Cheese Melt ($5), Vermont cheddar, fontina, and muenster. Those feeling more adventurous may want to try the Allston ($6.50), herb goat cheese, house-made fig jam, arugula, and caramelized onions. The Classic Melt ($4.50) gives customers the chance to design their own by selecting a cheese (Vermont cheddar, muenster, fontina, Swiss, or house-made pimento) and a range of toppers: arugula, tomatoes, caramelized onions ($.70 each), house-made guacamole or applewood bacon ($1.50 each), or pickles from Grillo’s ($1). Vegan versions are also available.

Roxy’s menu also features a handful of burgers, such as Justin’s Burger ($7.50), which comes with house-made pimento cheese, Grillo’s pickles, caramelized onions, and chipotle mayo on a Portuguese sweet bun, and the Mushroom Burger ($7.50), served with sautéed crimini mushrooms, Swiss cheese, caramelized onions, arugula, and truffle mayo. Add a cup of roasted tomato soup ($3), a glass of house-made lemonade, whose flavors change frequently ($3), or a brew from the daily selection of “beers of the moment” (prices vary) to round out your meal.

We arrived at Roxy’s hungry and ready to eat. After weighing our options (and answering the age-old question: grilled cheese or burger?), we decided to try two of Roxy’s most famous grilled cheese creations: the Green Muenster Melt ($7), muenster cheese, North Country bacon, and house-made guacamole, and the Mighty Rib Melt ($8), fontina cheese, caramelized onions, and braised beef.

The guacamole in our Green Muenster was creamy and mild, studded with chunks of onions and tomatoes for added texture. The melted cheese accompanied the guacamole nicely. But the highlight was the bacon: crispy, with a smoky flavor. Our Mighty Rib Melt proved mighty indeed, a generous pile of tender, flavorful beef between layers of warm, gooey fontina cheese. Sweet caramelized onions added an extra dimension to the combination of flavors. Both sandwiches were grilled  just right, and the crunch from the thick-cut, buttery bread complemented the cheese’s velvety texture.

As filling as the sandwiches were, we decided to treat ourselves to some truffle fries ($4). Made from fresh-cut potatoes, they were topped with rosemary, sea salt, and truffle oil. Addictively tangy, they had just the right consistency. But be forewarned: there were enough fries to feed a small army. Between two of us, we were able to polish off only slightly more than half of them.

To wash it all down, we opted for the homemade lemonade. The flavor of the day was blood orange: sweet and citrusy without being cloying, it was cool and refreshing.

With mouth-watering food, a convenient location, and modest prices, you’ll find yourself visiting Roxy’s again and again.

Roxy’s Grilled Cheese, 485 Cambridge St., Allston, is open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, and 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; phone: 617-202-5864. Roxy’s accepts all major credit cards. View the menu here. Take the 57 bus toward Watertown via Brighton to the Cambridge Street at N. Beacon Street stop. Roxy’s also has a food truck that travels around Boston. Times and locations vary; see a schedule (subject to change) here.

Samantha Pickette can be reached at pickette@bu.edu.

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